@import url('https://fonts.googleapis.com/css2?family=Noto+Serif+SC:wght@400;500;600;700;800&family=DM+Sans:wght@400;500;600;700&display=swap');

:root{--paper:#f7f6f1;--ink:#28362e;--muted:#7d8177;--green:#345044;--soft:#eaece4;--line:#dedfd5;--accent:#ae684a;--card:#efeee7;--serif:'Noto Serif SC','Songti SC','SimSun',serif;--sans:'DM Sans','Microsoft YaHei',sans-serif;color-scheme:light}
:root[data-theme=dark]{--paper:#202823;--ink:#e4e6dc;--muted:#a5aea0;--green:#b3c8b4;--soft:#303c33;--line:#3e493f;--accent:#d99a75;--card:#2c352d;color-scheme:dark}
*{box-sizing:border-box}html{scroll-behavior:smooth;scroll-padding-top:28px}body{margin:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font-family:var(--sans);font-size:14px;line-height:1.8;-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased}button,input{font:inherit}button,a{-webkit-tap-highlight-color:transparent}button{color:inherit}a{color:inherit;text-decoration:none}button{cursor:pointer}img{display:block;width:100%;object-fit:cover}svg{display:block}button:focus-visible,a:focus-visible,input:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--accent);outline-offset:5px}::selection{background:#b9c9b8;color:#263c2e}[hidden]{display:none!important}.skip-link{position:fixed;top:-70px;left:20px;z-index:50;background:var(--green);color:var(--paper);padding:8px 18px}.skip-link:focus{top:10px}.site-header{max-width:1160px;margin:auto;height:112px;display:flex;align-items:center;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);gap:40px}.brand{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:12px;margin-right:auto}.brand-symbol{font-family:Georgia,serif;font-size:55px;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:-9px;line-height:1;margin-top:-10px}.brand-symbol>span{color:var(--accent);font-size:47px;letter-spacing:0}.brand-name{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:16px;letter-spacing:.2px;font-weight:700;line-height:1.3}.brand-name>span{display:block;font-family:var(--sans);font-size:8px;letter-spacing:2px;margin-top:7px;color:var(--muted);font-weight:500}.desktop-nav{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:34px;height:100%;font-size:13px}.desktop-nav a{position:relative;padding:12px 1px;color:var(--muted)}.desktop-nav a:hover,.desktop-nav a.active{color:var(--ink)}.desktop-nav a.active:after{content:'';position:absolute;bottom:1px;width:4px;height:4px;background:var(--accent);border-radius:50%;left:calc(50% - 2px)}.header-tools{display:flex;gap:14px;align-items:center;margin-left:20px}.icon-button{display:grid;place-items:center;width:30px;height:32px;padding:4px;border:0;background:none}.icon-button svg{width:18px;height:18px;fill:none;stroke:currentColor;stroke-width:1.4;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round}.tool-divider{height:15px;width:1px;background:var(--line)}.sun-icon{display:none!important}[data-theme=dark] .sun-icon{display:block!important}[data-theme=dark] .moon-icon{display:none}.menu-toggle{display:none}.mobile-nav{padding:12px 24px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.mobile-nav a{display:block;padding:10px 0}.reading-progress{position:fixed;left:0;top:0;width:0;height:3px;background:var(--accent);z-index:20}main{max-width:1160px;min-height:65vh;margin:0 auto}.eyebrow{font-size:10px;font-weight:500;letter-spacing:2px;line-height:1.6;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--muted)}.green-dot{display:inline-block;height:6px;width:6px;border-radius:50%;background:#7b9176;margin-right:9px;vertical-align:1px}.hero{display:grid;grid-template-columns:.9fr 1.1fr;gap:64px;align-items:center;padding:58px 0 50px}.hero-copy{padding-bottom:8px}.hero-greeting{font-size:12px;letter-spacing:1.5px;color:var(--muted);margin:0 0 20px}.hero h1{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:54px;line-height:1.42;letter-spacing:1px;font-weight:600;margin:0 0 22px}.hero h1 em{font-style:normal;color:var(--accent)}.hero-description{color:var(--muted);line-height:2.15;font-size:13px;margin-bottom:26px}.hero-description strong{font-weight:400;color:var(--ink)}.text-link{font-size:12px;display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:18px}.text-link .arrow{display:inline-block;font-size:18px;transition:transform .2s}.text-link:hover .arrow{transform:translateX(5px)}.hero-visual{position:relative;padding-bottom:16px}.hero-image-wrap{position:relative;overflow:hidden;border-radius:2px}.hero-image-wrap img{height:354px;object-position:center 58%}.photo-caption{position:absolute;bottom:14px;right:16px;display:flex;align-items:center;gap:7px;color:#fff;font-size:9px;letter-spacing:1.5px;text-shadow:0 1px 4px #000}.photo-caption svg{height:12px;width:12px;fill:none;stroke:currentColor;stroke-width:1.5}.hero-visual:after{content:'';position:absolute;top:13px;left:13px;right:-13px;bottom:2px;border:1px solid var(--line);z-index:-1}.photo-note{background:#ede9dd;color:#495241;position:absolute;bottom:0;left:-25px;padding:15px 22px 14px;transform:rotate(-5deg);font-family:var(--serif);font-size:13px;box-shadow:1px 4px 8px #0000000b;line-height:1.8}.photo-note 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main:focus{outline:none}
.article-photo img{height:auto;max-height:none;aspect-ratio:16/9}
@media(min-width:1550px){.site-header,main,.site-footer{max-width:1200px}.hero{padding-top:70px;padding-bottom:62px}.hero-image-wrap img{height:380px}.hero h1{font-size:58px}}
@media(max-width:1250px){.site-header,main,.site-footer{margin-left:48px;margin-right:48px}.hero{gap:40px}.hero h1{font-size:48px}.hero-image-wrap img{height:330px}.latest-layout{gap:40px}}
@media(max-width:950px){.site-header,main,.site-footer{margin-left:30px;margin-right:30px}.site-header{height:95px;gap:25px}.desktop-nav{gap:24px}.header-tools{margin-left:0;gap:8px}.hero{gap:30px;padding-top:46px}.hero h1{font-size:39px}.hero-image-wrap img{height:310px}.hero-description{font-size:12px}.photo-note{left:-12px;font-size:11px}.intro-strip{gap:12px}.strip-end{display:none}.featured-grid{gap:25px}.story h3{font-size:20px}.latest-layout{gap:30px;grid-template-columns:1.45fr 1fr}.small-about{padding:24px}.journal-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.about-layout{gap:35px;grid-template-columns:1.4fr 1fr}.travel-layout{gap:35px;grid-template-columns:1fr 1.5fr}.route-card{padding:23px}.article-header h1{font-size:32px}}
@media(max-width:680px){.site-header,main,.site-footer{margin-left:22px;margin-right:22px}.site-header{height:84px;gap:12px}.brand-symbol{font-size:46px;letter-spacing:-8px}.brand-symbol>span{font-size:39px}.brand-name{font-size:14px}.brand-name>span{font-size:7px;letter-spacing:1.6px}.desktop-nav{display:none}.header-tools{gap:7px;margin-left:0}.tool-divider{display:none}.icon-button{width:27px}.menu-toggle{display:grid;margin-left:0}.hero{grid-template-columns:1fr;padding:36px 0 30px;gap:30px}.hero-copy{padding-bottom:0}.hero-greeting{font-size:11px;margin-bottom:16px}.hero h1{font-size:43px;line-height:1.4;margin-bottom:18px}.hero-description{font-size:12px;margin-bottom:18px;line-height:2}.hero-description br{display:none}.hero-visual{margin-right:8px;margin-left:8px}.hero-image-wrap img{height:245px}.photo-note{padding:10px 16px;bottom:0;left:-12px}.intro-strip{padding:16px 0;margin:5px 0 34px;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px 16px}.intro-strip p{font-size:10px}.intro-strip .strip-icon{font-size:12px;margin-right:4px}.section-heading{margin-bottom:18px;gap:10px}.heading-title{gap:9px}.heading-title h2{font-size:21px}.section-heading>.text-link{font-size:10px;gap:8px}.featured-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:31px}.story-image{aspect-ratio:1.72}.story h3{font-size:21px}.story-meta{margin-top:14px}.story p{font-size:12px}.story-bottom{margin-top:14px}.latest-section{margin-top:39px}.latest-layout{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:28px}.post-row{padding:20px 0;grid-template-columns:53px 1fr 18px;gap:10px}.row-date{font-size:9px}.row-copy h3{font-size:15px}.small-about{padding:24px 27px}.small-about .asterisk{float:right;font-size:45px}.small-about p{max-width:83%}.interest-band{margin-top:35px;align-items:flex-start;gap:14px;flex-direction:column}.interest-tags{gap:8px}.interest-tags a,.interest-tags span{font-size:10px;padding:3px 10px}.site-footer{margin-top:45px;padding-top:25px;align-items:flex-start;gap:22px;flex-direction:column}.footer-right{text-align:left}.site-footer p{font-size:9px}.footer-brand{font-size:15px}.page-intro{padding:35px 0 25px}.page-intro h1{font-size:32px}.page-intro p{font-size:12px}.journal-toolbar{flex-direction:column;gap:15px;margin-bottom:22px}.filter-tabs{gap:4px}.filter-button{padding:5px 12px;font-size:11px}.inline-search{max-width:none}.journal-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:32px}.journal-grid .story h3{font-size:20px}.journal-grid .story-image{aspect-ratio:1.8}.travel-banner{height:240px;margin-bottom:30px}.travel-banner .banner-copy{left:23px;bottom:24px}.banner-copy h2{font-size:23px}.travel-layout{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:25px}.travel-aside h2{margin-bottom:12px}.travel-stat{padding:12px 0}.route-card{padding:22px}.route-stops{font-size:11px;gap:9px}.places-section{margin-top:30px}.about-layout{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:26px}.about-copy h2{font-size:21px}.about-copy>p{font-size:13px}.about-facts{padding:22px 25px}.favorite-grid{gap:12px;margin-top:25px}.favorite-item{padding:15px}.favorite-item h3{font-size:14px}.about-quote{margin-top:32px;padding:22px;font-size:20px}.article-shell{padding-top:25px}.back-link{margin-bottom:23px}.article-header h1{font-size:27px;line-height:1.6}.article-lead{font-size:16px}.article-body h2{font-size:21px;margin-top:30px}.article-body p{font-size:13px;line-height:2.2}.article-body blockquote{font-size:18px}.article-end{flex-direction:column;gap:14px}.related-article{padding:20px}.search-field input{font-size:12px}.search-top h2{font-size:20px}.search-result h3{font-size:14px}}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}*,*:before,*:after{animation:none!important;transition:none!important}}